Author: Paul

  • NaNoWriMo 19

    It’s 18th November, 2019. I have finished the first draft of my National Novel Writing Month project. It’s been an interesting two and a half weeks where I’ve had to carry my laptop with me at all times, desperately squirreling away when I get some time to myself to work. This was the first time that I had worked using Dan Harmon’s Story Circles and I found it such a useful tool to get to grips with what my protagonist wanted.

     This in conjunction with my ability to put the blinkers on and focus on the sole task of making word count for the day. The fact that I’ve managed to write 55,000 words (exactly) in eighteen days means that I was going above the daily wordcount of 1,667 substantially. The rebooted website (which is not without its bugs) says that I’ve averaged 3,055 words a day.

    Knowing that I can’t look at the words I have written for at least a month, and not having anything better to do with my time, I think it’s important to tell you all that I have immediately started on another project. In October I posted a poll to social media with three different ideas for stories. The detective story I have just finished was the winner by a nose, so I think it’s only fair I write up the second idea – a coming of age story told through a series of letters to a cultural icon. I’ve always been interested in the nature of teenagerhood, and the awkwardness that comes across children as they bloom into the people that they are due to become. As ever, it’s an opportunity for me to process a lot of things that I went through at that time and to try and understand how it made me who I am.

     

    I can’t promise that I’ll get another 50k done, but my god I’m willing to try.

  • Hangovers pass.

    I was driving through central London at the weekend with a rip-roaring hangover when I noticed people were staring at me because there was a mysterious ticking noise under my bonnet. I pulled over in Bermondsey and got covered in an unholy amount of oil before discovering that my fan belt had split and was causing the noise. This was the result of a leak in my power steering fluid.

    Naturally, I panicked and called my dad. He decided to berate my hungover ass for not having breakdown cover and then took me through my viable options. It turned out that I was fucked.

    I eventually managed to get the car pushed into a nearby garage (which was closed because it was the day of rest) and left it there, calling the garage and leaving a voicemail for them to pick up first thing Monday morning.

    I then had to get the train home, still covered in oil, still hungover to goddamn sin.

     

    This isn’t a blog about breaking down. It isn’t even a post about being hangover. God knows I’ve written enough of those over the years.

    Instead this is a celebration of the people you immediately turn to when you don’t know what else to do.

    I knew he wouldn’t be able to do anything practical. I wasn’t expecting him to drive up and save me. What he did do was invite me over for dinner and give me a cuddle that let me know that writing off any car passes. Hangovers pass. Love doesn’t.

  • Copenhagen.

    Copenhagen wasn’t at the top of my list of cities to visit, but when flights from the airport ten minutes from my flat came up for £18.00 return, it was suddenly promoted.
    This weekend, Jaz, Ross, Jess and I took on the city of pastries, Hans Christian Andersen and fancy dinnerware.

    Jaz and I stayed on a houseboat, booked via Airbnb. We landed late at night with instructions on how to get in via a lockbox. The issue was that the pictures on Airbnb didn’t show which boat was ours. We tried breaking into two other boats before we found the right one (thanks to my keen detective skills). As expected, everything was very cool, Scandi and minimalistic. We went to bed, knowing we had a lot of exploring to do in the morning.

    We were up at eight and out by nine. We walked across the city, picking up coffee and pastries on our way. Our first stop was the Round Tower, a dominating attachment to a local church that hosted the first observatory in Europe. The inside was built as a gentle slope rather than stairs, which begs the question, why do stairs still exist? They’re ableist bullshit.
    The best investment was the Copenhagen Card, and the accompanying app. It cost us €99 each for three days and gave us access to the majority of exhibitions, museums and other attractions as well as free reign of the city’s public transport.
    At the top of the tower was a burrowed hole through to the core where there was a twenty-five metre drop. There was a glass panel across so you could stand on it, staring down and worrying that you were tempting fate.
    Further up was a tight staircase that led to a viewing platform over the beautiful low of green and terracotta rooftops.

    On our way back down we found an exhibition on the original moon landing, which is definitely a bit of me. They had photos from the original landing as well as models and a to-scale Lego model of the Apollo 11. There was no mention of Kubrick’s involvement.

    Our next stop was the National Gallery of Denmark (Statens Museum for Kunst) which had several floors of Danish and French artwork from the sixteenth through to the twentieth century. I saw a lot of painted norks and felt richer for the experience.

    We walked through Nyhavn to meet Ross and Jess at the Bridge Street Kitchen. We had pints of Pilsner and took it in turns to get food which we then shared. I had a hot dog with pickles and mustard followed by a noodle dish with a side of vegetable dumplings. All travel should be seen as a vessel to eat.

    On the way back through Nyhavn (known for the canal and the beautiful pastel-coloured buildings) we stopped for waffle sticks (more food should be served on sticks). I had chocolate sauce and nuts, which I promptly got all round my face like a child.

    We visited the Guinness World Record Museum, which was in the same league as wax museums – slightly cheesy but interactive enough to be worth a visit. There, we compared the weight of the four of us against the world’s fattest man (still only half his total), tried to beat the world record for stacking cups, drum rolls and longest basketball spin on one finger, and played immense games of Pac-Man on a giant screen.

    We stopped in a bookshop café for beers, cocktails and hot chocolate and then headed to The Bird & Churchkey where we played loud games of Irish Snap before getting soaked in a sudden downpour and taking solace in Cock’s & Cows, a gourmet burger joint which I insisted on calling Cow and Chicken (thanks childhood spent watching Cartoon Network). We had huge burgers, assortments of fries and raspberry gin cocktails before heading back to the houseboat to play card games and drink beers.

    On day two, Jaz and I walked most of the way to the Design Museum before discovering that all museums in the city are closed on Mondays. We visited Freetown Christiana, an area akin to Amsterdam’s approach to drug-taking. It has an element of urban decay or stoner logic to it. Everyone looks strung out and there are more off-brand tracksuits on display than a sale at Sports Direct. It was good to visit and look around but I think the time in my life when I would have been really impressed by it is over.

    We walked back to Nyhavn and picked up an hour-long canal boat tour via the Opera House, the Little Mermaid statue and a fly-by of the canal where our boat was parked up. The tour was a better way of exploring the city than blindly wandering. I would not recommend trekking out to the statue of the Little Mermaid, when you could see it on the boat. Like all mermaids, she will only ever let you down.

    We met up with Jess and Ross again and visited the Mystic Exploratorie, in an alley behind the Guinness World Record museum, which it could be considered to be the weak sibling of. Saying that, we did enjoy the electric chair.

    Ross and Jess went shopping for tea and anything to make them feel more hygge. We got French-style hot dogs from a street vendor. We visited Ripley’s Believe It or Not and the Hans Christian Andersen Fairytale House, which were both terrifying and stupid in a fun way. Any Ripleys, anywhere in the world, has the same dated elements. That doesn’t change it being a fun way to spend an hour out of the cold. I liked the illusions, the Vampire Killing Kit and the shark attack room.
    The attached Fairy Tale House retold Andersen’s stories with a terrifying set of models and dioramas. It raises questions when they’re viewed through a twenty-first century lens.

    We went to Tivoli Gardens, which I had been given mixed messages about. Some said it was a must when visiting Copenhagen, others said it was overpriced touristy crap. The truth is that it is somewhere in between. It is expensive but the experience was one of my favourite elements of our time in the city. Tivoli Gardens is a huge theme park in the centre of the city witha large range of rides, attractions and games as well as plenty of stops for food and drink. The price of entry to the park was included with our Copenhagen Card but you also need to pay for a pass if you want to go on the rides. This was 250DKK – 295DKK (£30+).
    Tivoli boasts a rolling expanse of beautiful gardens and a lake. It was all themed towards Halloween.

    Jaz is not a fan of rollercoasters so took advantage of the snacks available while we rode as many rides as we could. We started on the wooden rollercoaster, cleverly named The Rollercoaster, and then hit up TikTak, a mad waltzer that span upside down if you could jar your bodies back and forth in the right way. We took turns to sit together. Jess and Ross sat together on the coaster and Ross and I joined forces on the waltzer.

    We got pizza and hot dogs and went on Aquila, a ride where we sat in twos on giant birds that went round in circles while flipping upside down. We then found our way over to Vertigo, the biggest boy in the park. I was split about riding it at all but the peer pressure got the best of me and we joined the back of the queue. Looking at the tiny children coming off of the ride I knew I couldn’t back out but there was nothing about watching this giant torture device spin at such a rate that it sounded like their screams were being cross-faded above my head.
    We were strapped in and set on our way. The fixed ride looped over and over again and again, flipping our four-way car around on its axis at the same time until it clunked into place and settled into a straight course as it got faster and faster. I felt my whole body drawn back into my seat. I couldn’t work out which way was up as it got faster still. It was dark out and flashing lights were turned on their heads again and again. I was sucked backwards and watched the world roll under my seat and over my head so quickly that I couldn’t work out if I was testing out for NASA or having a fun day out with my friends.
    I came off feeling dizzy but wired. We stopped in a café nearby to warm up. I had the most incredible drink of the weekend – La Mumba. La Mumba was a hot chocolate mixed with rum. Jess had the same. Jaz and Ross had coffee with Baileys.
    Ross and I ordered large drinks for the table and were amazed at our 6oz cups. It came to about 200DKK (£24) for four drinks. We decided not to convert it back to GBP at the time in case the fear set in.

    Any ride we went on after Vertigo was twinged with the mundane. Vertigo was the upper limit. We went on the dragon rollercoaster, The Demon, and the swings, which shot up above the park. It is worth visiting late in the afternoon and holding out into the evening. A lot of the annoying children and their families head home when it gets dark which lessens much of the queueing time. It’s also worth visiting during term times, a thought we had completely skipped over.

    Tivoli Gardens was a lot of fun and anyone who says otherwise needs to have a less serious look at themselves. We stopped in at the food court on our way out so we could all eat whatever the hell we liked. Writing this up, I realise that all I did was eat and drink for three days. Ross had a disappointing toasted sandwich. Jess got nuggets. Jaz had a chicken sandwich. I had an amazing burrito and a beer.

    Ross and I then got electric scooters back to the house boat ahead of the girls, who insisted on walking. This is another recommendation. You can download Lime or a similar app to unlock access to the electric scooters which are strategically scattered around the city. They even offer up a warning if it’s late at night and you’re probably drunk.
    Back at the boat we played more card games and had more beer. Jaz snoozed until we were finished and ready for bed ourselves. Day two was done.

    We packed up our stuff and left our cute little houseboat. We walked to the Design Museum and were bemused at what seemed like a disorganised Ikea. While Danish design is incredible, there was little to inspire at the museum. The best part was the classroom of benches, colouring pencils and paper where you could sit and draw. It felt calming to pretend I wasn’t a grown up and to do something abstract.

    We then went next door to the Medical Museion, which was much closer to our winter goth aesthetic. The museum is in the building that previously hosted the surgeons of Copenhagen. It’s a labyrinthine expanse across three floors with plenty of old equipment and samples to gawk at. We wandered through with morbid fascination.
    There was a special exhibition on the link between gut health and mental health that was interesting but it was the preserved parts in jars that we stared at for the longest period of time.

    We hired electric scooters and headed back to the Rosenborg Castle to meet Jess and Ross. The four of us went to the Big Apple café for fresh juices. Mine had chilli in and was supposed to detoxify me following the amount of booze I’d imbibed. I can only assume it worked.

    We visited the Meteorology exhibition at the Natural History Museum, beside the Botanical Gardens. I’ve always been fascinated by space and the idea of anything otherworldly is right up my street but it remained a short trip. You know how the old saying goes, once you’ve touched one meteorite…
    We walked back to the centre of the city and found a table at the Bastard Café where we played a two-hour game of Catan over beers. We got an early dinner at the fantastically named Riz Raz and then got the Metro to the airport, knowing we had to go home and that we had work the following morning.

    I cannot recommend Copenhagen enough as a city to visit. The people are very cool, very tall, well-composed, friendly and beautiful. The city has a lot of history and a lot to offer for different groups of people. You can make the experience entirely your own and don’t need to do any of the things I did to have a good time.
    It can be expensive but the Copenhagen Card is a great way of cutting down on expenditure when you’re there. Saying that, I think I averaged £100 a day on food and drink.

    If you have any further questions on the city then feel free to add a comment or use my Contact Page.

  • Southend Improvathon 2019.

    My heart is very full.

    This weekend I got to work alongside some of the greatest and most depraved minds in Southend’s second 24-hour improvathon. For those of you who have not seen an improvathon, it’s a long-form improvised theatre production featuring the same cast and characters. Some did shifts, others did the full twenty-four. I was already booked up for the Saturday so I did a simple twelve hours, from 7pm on Friday (when the show opened) until 7am the following morning.

    The improvathon was set aboard the spacecraft, the S.S. Galileo, in the distant future. We were invited to bring a character idea and a costume, but that was as far as the planning went. The entire thing was directed by the incredible Ali James, alongide Jim working the lights and sound, and the introduction of Jordan, our resident pianist.

    Ali would request specific characters to the stage, give a one liner for what would happen in the scene and away we went. While I struggle with terrible stage fright and anxiety if I am getting up to perform anything organised, I find getting up with no idea of what is about to happen a much more freeing experience. You build trust with your scene partners and let your mind go to the weirdest places.

    I played John Doe, a spaceman rescued from deep space after being cryogenically frozen in an escape pod. When he comes to, he has no recollection of who he is or where he has come from. I thought it was a great setup for a character, fit in with the tropes of science fiction, and would limit me overthinking the scenes ahead of me too much.
    The best thing about being in the improvathon is watching your very talented friends as they build an incredible world around you. I was constantly overwhelmed by how their brains grabbed at ideas and witty dialogue, puns galore, a little pause and a look to the audience that did so much.
    I got to work with Wendy in my first couple of scenes, and shared a duet which she thankfully led. I had never improvised in song before and it’s a different battle entirely. I managed a bit of call and response. It always amazes me how I am continually learning when it comes to improv. It’s like finding that you aren’t as fit as you thought you were when you try a different exercise. Anything outside of my wheelhouse immediately makes me wonder if I have learnt anything at all.
    John Doe then met Jen’s character, Connie Lingua, the ships’ communications expert who recognised him. They discovered they were long lost twins, a move cemented by Jen and I pulling up our sleeves to reveal half sleeves of tattoos – our “matching birthmarks”.
    Connie taught John – now named Fellash (short for Fellatio) about their home planet, B127-Speed and he recovered a repressed memory about the death of their father, The Tattooed King, at the hands of time traveller Lordy Lordy (played by the wonderful John Oakes and Lee Tearrell). They fought to the death and The Tattooed King was defeated.
    Connie and Fellash then battled Lordy Lordy for revenge and relived their entire lives in separation before their father appeared through a transporter and told Fellash it was time for him to return to B127-Speed and lead his people.
    I am not ashamed to admit that I felt a tear at the corner of my eye as I was transported back to my home planet (via some strung up fairy lights).

    I sometimes forget that taking part in improv is not a normal thing that everyone I know does. It’s fair to say that I have a lot of friends who do improv, but it’s more the case that improv introduced me to these people and I am now fortunate enough to call them friends. In a world that is so split and destructive, how wonderful it is to work with a group of people who just want to play and make each other laugh.
    My arc and my shift were just one star in the constellation, the swirling galaxy that was this year’s improvathon. Getting to watch Dork be killed off and scalped, Keith Moon learn to play AI golf, seeing Gareth Gates and Jackov trying to disguise a poo, seeing Albert killed by a dentist, Alexa answering all of the questions, Brother Barry and Elder Edward perform a baptism, Emperor Zog exposing himself and Flash winning the ship against Sahara in an epic game of Rock, Paper, Scissors, I can’t help but beam that I got to be part of something so wonderful.

    I loved it all, to infinity and beyond.

    Photos by Gaz de Vere

  • On Brothers

    I feel distant from my brothers. That distance is approximately six miles and sixteen and a half miles respectively, assuming they are at home.

    I would like to think that I’m a good older brother. The only place I fall down is that I probably look younger than either of them.
    I did my fair share of psychological torture when we were younger but that has phased out over time to leave beautiful friendships in my life which I will always be grateful for. I mention my brothers because in the last two weeks I have had moments with each of them where I recognised what it means to have brothers and how thankful I am to have them in my life and for them to recognise the same in their small way. Neither Robb or Edd are big gesture people. I have always been the emotional one. I once fled the table in tears when they told me Baby Spice had a boyfriend. When they were getting football kit and micro scooters for birthdays, I had a pottery wheel and the works of Lewis and Tolkien.

    Last weekend I helped Robb out of a bind because he had to work unexpectedly. He does such an incredible job of juggling fatherhood and work, providing for his family to the absolute best of his ability and then falling asleep in the bath. I look at the way he keeps those plates spinning and am in awe of him. He’s doing the parent thing and I don’t know when he became such an adult.
    I helped ferry his eldest, Harry, to football practice and then made cookies with Harry and Kadie, my niece.
    When Robb got home I gave him some life advice and then helped him and his wife load the kids into the car. He came around to where I had just finished fighting Kadie into her seat and said “you know what, you’re a good brother”. We hugged.
    That’s all I need. I would go to the ends of the earth for that boy and all he will ever have to do is acknowledge it.

    Last weekend, I helped Edd and his fiancé, Angelina, move house. I got there as early as I could, with a hangover, to find the pair of them fretting because their possessions had expanded in the five years they had been in their flat. The operation of moving it all themselves was a bit overwhelming. With the help of Angelina’s family, we got it all packed up. Of course, I cut my hand open when we were shifting stuff out to the van and bled everywhere, but that’s the nature of me trying to do any manual labour. I bought a pack of black sacks and threw everything I could into bags so we could get over to their new house.

    At the other side, I helped unload the van and tried to make sense of what they had brought with them.
    It was a busy day and I hoped that in some way, having me there made it easier for the pair of them.
    When I announced that I had to bounce, Edd hugged me and thanked me for all of my help. Again, that was all it took. I knew I had completed my part in being a good older brother. To see him in his new place, doing a fairly good impression of an adult, was a surreal experience.

    I recognise that I am fortunate to be as close to my brothers as I am. That’s not the case for a lot of families. It’s like having best friends who are contractually obliged to love you. We may be older and we may be losing our hair but as far as I’m concerned, we could pull a dance routine to Grease Lightnin’ out the bag tomorrow if we needed to.

  • Bowling With Toby

    This weekend I was allowed to take my eight-year-old godson, Toby, out for the day. He is a great kid but we had never had to survive one another’s company without the help of some proper adult supervision. Desperate to make him love me, I decided that I would let him have whatever he wanted. My wallet and my heart were open to him, and he soon realised it.

    The key thing I wanted to teach Toby, was that being the eldest sibling can sometimes be hard. I’m the eldest of three. He’s the eldest of three. He’s a voracious reader and a brilliant wit and a very creative swearer. This week I heard him call his dad a “bloomin’ stupid fuck”. He might be a secret genius, and I’m me. We have a lot of stuff in common.

    Jaz and I took him bowling, where he almost took us down in the first game. I bought him a Coke Zero and let him have some Pringles out of the machine in the hopes he would look after me in my old age.

    We had a second game and with just four points in it, I decided to do the noble thing and throw the game. I chucked my ball at the barriers (put up for him). The ball stopped halfway down the gutter. I then chucked a ball down the other gutter. It got stuck against the barrier. I had to tell the bored-looking man at the counter what I had done so he could roll his eyes and release said balls.
    I then treated Toby to lunch.

    He asked for a burger and chips and beans. He lined up all the sauces along the table and complained that it was taking too long for his food after eight minutes. He questioned why we would ever be vegetarian and what was in a vegetarian burger. He asked if we could go to the soft play centre on the other side of town. I told him that as long as he was happy to change my catheter when I was elderly then I would take him. He didn’t understand and agreed which I’m fairly sure is a verbal contract.

    He ate most of his food and then asked if we could go, even though I wasn’t done eating, and I would be damned before I left food.

    We went to the soft play. He insisted I go in with him to play Hide and Seek. I pretended not to have the best time in front of the other parents but gave my fair share of boots in the back to kids in the ball pit. I bought two Ribenas and some sweets. Then he asked how I felt about spending more money.
    I told him I didn’t feel great about it. I still had a week until payday and at some stage during that time I assumed I would need to buy some food.


    Instead we went for the park and raced around the climbing frames. I let him push me on the swing until he slipped underneath me and I nearly knocked him out in the process. Then I took him home.

    Despite the ketchup stain on the front of his shorts and the mixture of bark and puddle on the back of his shorts, he was relatively unharmed by a day out with Uncle Paul. That’s the best that any of us can hope for.

  • A $250 cookie recipe.

    This week I was let in on the secret of the legend of the $250 Neiman Marcus Cookie.
    The story goes that a woman was so impressed with a cookie she had in the cafe of the American department store in Dallas that she asked if it would be possible to purchase it. She was told that it would be “two fifty”. They charged this to her card. When she got her statement through, she noticed the charge for the cookie recipe was $250.00.
    When she queried this with them, they said that this was fee and it was non-refundable. The woman swore revenge and began an email chain (remember those), where she shared the recipe with everyone she could think of. You can find a million different blogs and websites with the recipe; including here, here and here.

    You will be pleased to know that I asked my Iowa mom if I could have a copy of the recipe she used, because I couldn’t stop thinking about those damn cookies, and I’ll share that (in grams) here, now:

    You will need:
    256g softened butter
    256g granulated sugar
    256g brown sugar
    4 eggs
    2 tsp vanilla essence
    512g plain flour
    640g (ground) oatmeal
    1 tsp salt
    2 tsp baking powder
    2 tsp baking soda
    300g chocolate chips
    200g grated chocolate
    200g chopped nuts (optional)

    I blended the oatmeal in a smoothie maker. If you have a blender or food processor then that will probably be easier.

    Method:
    Cream the butter and both sugars.
    Add eggs and vanilla.
    Mix together with flour, blended oatmeal, salt, baking powder and baking soda.
    Add chocolate chips, grated chocolate and nuts.
    Roll into balls and place two inches apart on a baking sheet.
    Bake for 10 – 12 minutes at 190 degrees.

    The recipe says that this makes 112 cookies. I got about seventy, and I also ate a lot of dough in the process.

    My favourite part about this recipe is the story behind it. It doesn’t matter if it’s true, it’s the story that makes it. That and the wonderful deliciousness.

  • Iowa

    Three years ago, I was enduring work when the new American guy on our team, Darren, asked if I would go for a pint and talk about writing. I am always up for conversations about writing but I couldn’t work out what he actually wanted. I was suspicious of his motives. It turned out he was after a little guy I like to call friendship.

    A year and a half ago, Darren made me attend a Super Bowl weekend trip with him and his friends. I spent the whole time wondering why anyone cared about the Super Bowl if it wasn’t to watch Justin Timberlake perform the half time show. We got very drunk and played a lot of board games.

    He then started dating someone and told me I had to meet her. I could tell by the spark in his eyes that this was different and special and as soon as the three of us sat down over gin and tonics I realised that Darren and Laura had something special.

    Last year, when he told me he was going to ask her to marry him, I was so happy. I felt like I had been there since the beginning and it was the most natural thing for them to become husband and wife.

    Being the brilliant, bright and organised couple they are, it wasn’t long before invites were sent out. I was asked not just to attend their wedding in London but also the American leg of their wedding party. As a mutual friend of both of them, they asked if I would come to Iowa.

    Knowing that there was nothing I would enjoy more, and that I would never have a better reason to visit the Corn State, I told them I would be absolutely delighted.

    The three of us flew to Iowa together. I cannot put into words the incredible hospitality that I enjoyed while I was there. I stayed with Darren’s mum, Monica, and stepdad, Craig. They could not have been kinder to me. I felt not only like a friend, but that they saw me as family.

    Monica made fresh cookies from a secret recipe while Craig barbecued steak out on their deck.
    Monica poured litres of cold brew coffee to share with me while Craig loaded a cooler onto the bed of his truck to take out to the lake.
    Monica engaged me in deep and interesting conversations. Craig took me out tubing on the lake and made harsh turns so I flipped off into the water. I had the most incredible time and felt very free.

    I also spent more time with Darren and Laura than I ordinarily would. Aside from our Super Bowl weekends and their visit to Southend, our time together was limited to sneaking out of work for coffee and nights out. Unlimited access to their fun, intelligent, wonderful friendship was a gift in itself.

    I also got to see more of Darren’s brother, Carey, and his girlfriend, Sarah, who are so New York cool that I couldn’t help but talk too much in an effort to impress them.
    I spoke to Darren’s father, Dan, who is the reason Darren is as enchanting as he is.

    It was also a chance to get to know Laura’s parents, Peter and Jane.
    Peter spoke with such affection for their daughter that I couldn’t help but be drawn into their wonderful relationship.
    Jane joined me in bouts of binging on margaritas until we were giggling in the corner and drawing suspicious looks from her only daughter.

    I got to try a keg stand (and fell on my face) and mastered beer pong. I played basketball in their suburban driveway. I ate so well that I started working on a plan to refuse to leave their guest room until they learnt to love me. I fell asleep on the floor of the den. I played shuffleboard with Peter. I lost spectacularly at Harry Potter Dobble, but most of all, I got to witness the love between two of my friends and I felt very lucky the entire time.

  • Drunk And Out in London and Paris (and then London again)

    They say that the definition of insanity is repeating the same steps and expecting a different result. Eight years ago I took an overnight coach to Paris with my friend Lucy. The fallout from that horrific journey meant we didn’t speak to each other for several months. We are fine now.
    Knowing how much that trip had destroyed me, I did it again at the weekend.
    I got loaded at a party on the South Bank before remembering I had a coach to catch and rushing over to Victoria Bus Station. I dozed to Dover and let my head drop on a table aboard the ferry. I did the sleepyhead nod for the three hours to Paris and then I was stood on a bridge over the Seine and it was sunny and beautiful and I was free.

    I’m often asked why I choose to go away on my own. I guarantee that the people who ask have never tried it. For such a small gesture, it’s so calming. I walked from Bercy all the way to Shakespeare & Co in the hopes I could stay for the night. They offer accommodation to aspiring writers in exchange for a few hours work in the shop and an auto-biography for their archive.

    It wasn’t to be but I wandered through and acted bohemian. I walked all the way to Tour Eiffel. It was getting on for thirty degrees centigrade, so I decided to climb the 674 steps to the 2nd stage before getting the lift to the “sommet”. Despite not having anyone to deal with, I found everyone around me annoying. I was at the top for maybe five minutes before I felt penned in and realised it had been a mistake. I came back down and wandered off to find a Starbucks. I sat on the curb, thought about smoking and drank something cold and sugary in the name of being basic.

    I walked to Montparnasse and had lunch in Café du Dome, one of Hemingway’s favourite bars, which offered a three-course meal for €48 in his honour. I asked for it before being told they didn’t offer it as a lunch service. I had some great food, a glass of wine and then a double espresso before searching for the other bars Hemingway had frequented. La Rotonde was just across the road so I stopped for “un demi” before wandering up the road in search of La Closerie des Lilas, which looked like it had ideas so far above its station that I daren’t step a foot in the door. I bought a bottle of wine and sat in Le Jardin du Luxembourg until my legs didn’t work and then I stumbled on to another bar.

    As the sun started to go down, I found my way over to Tour Montparnasse and rode up 56 floors and climbed three sets of stairs to the observation deck where I got a beer and watched the sunset, surrounded by couples in love. Nothing improves a sunset quite like day drinking.

    After the sun had disappeared I realised it was about time I did as well and headed down before others had the same idea. I got the train south to Gentilly where my hostel was based. I spoke to the guy on reception about the origins of my name, my lack of desire to go out anywhere that evening and my plans for the following day. I got up to my shared room and fell down on my bunk, dreaming of beautiful people in Breton stripes.

    I awoke early, showered and got dressed. It felt great to be in clean clothes. I took the train up to Notre Dame and smirked at the tourists trying to get a photo at distance because the grounds were fenced off by police and security following the recent fire. I got a black coffee at the Shakespeare & Co cafe and sat outside, watching groups of tourists stop for photos.

    I headed north of the Seine to meet my friend Mika for brunch. He was coincidentally in Paris for the weekend, staying with his friend Marion. I had the most incredible lazy brunch of bread, yoghurt and honey, a charcuterie board, cheese, salad and a chocolate brownie. If there is one thing that makes you appreciate taking your time, it’s a good brunch.

    I left the pair of them to their hangovers and afternoon plans and walked to Musee du Louvre. Despite my various visits in the last twenty years, I had never been inside. I was told it takes three days to see everything. I’m not surprised. I got lost on so many occasions that I couldn’t be sure what I had and hadn’t seen before. I would wander past a marble statue that had become the equivalent of a tree stump and wonder if I was going round in circles. I saw the Mona Lisa, which was an experience in itself. They snake visitors up two escalators and through two rooms before you’re penned into an area for ninety seconds and have to get your photos in. It’s not that the painting itself was disappointing, just that people tend to be. I got a coffee and did some excellent people-watching and then rolled out and over to the Latin Quarter to get some dinner.

    On my way I passed over Le Pont des Arts, ruminating on an old relationship where the pair of us had attached a padlock with our initials to the mesh of the bridge. It was a thing.

    Over time the bridge was weighed down by the number of padlocks pinned to it so they cut the lot free and chucked it all in the Seine. C’est la vie.

    I have a rule when I’m travelling that I don’t have to be vegetarian if it’s going to be a bother. It doesn’t make sense to be vegetarian in France. I’m not going to eat foie gras, but I can’t ignore the allure of escargot. Those little garlicy boys know what is up. I sat with a beer and some snails and my book and felt like I had found the peace of mind I had been waiting for. I didn’t want to escape myself but the series of situations I always seem to find myself in. I didn’t have to consult with anyone or deal with anything. I could just sit and shut the fuck up for a moment and enjoy being in my body and in my book.

    I hired an electric scooter and tore down the bank of the river until I got back to Buchy where I abandoned the scooter outside a cinema  and caught a screening of Hobbs & Shaw, trying to pass the time before my coach home. It was subtitled in French so I was laughing at a different time to everyone else who read the punchlines before they’d been said out loud.
    I then found the least offensive-looking bar in Buchy Village and sat out by the curb, drinking beer and stuffing chips in my face.

    I got to the bus station with time to spare and found over seventy spots for coaches to pull up. I ran down the line, and found where my coach was supposed to be, but everyone shrugged at me when I asked what was going on. Somehow, the coach wasn’t where it was supposed to be or I wasn’t where I was supposed to be. I turned around and noticed a girl wearing a huge backpack who looked a little lost.
    ‘Are you going to London?’ we asked each other at the same time.

    I spent more time with Kayla than with anyone else over the weekend. We sat in the bus stop waiting for an update until one in the morning when a bus finally arrived. My ticket was for a different bus company so we came up with a cunning plan. I would put Kayla’s oversized bag in the hold while she argued our case with the driver. I then told her about my ridiculous plan. I needed to be back in London the following morning because I had to be at work at 9am. I had walked 50,149 steps in two days. I was half-cut.I had nine hours to get home. She laughed at me.

    Somehow there were still two seats on the coach. The driver let us on having only seen Kayla’s ticket. I promised him a drink when we got to the ferry, which I then realised was a bad move for a coach driver. We sat together on the coach and talked about travelling and family and hostels. Kayla had flown over from Brisbane and spent three months in Europe. She was heading to London to housesit for a family friend and was looking forward to understanding what people were saying to her. It was nice to talk to someone and to remember what it was like to be so young and carefree. She had some great stories.

    We sat in the Food Court on the ferry and talked about cage fighting and shots and kids swearing. We slept on the coach intermittently and I woke up to watch Brockley and Camberwell go by before we crossed the mighty Thames and pulled into Victoria.

    I couldn’t believe the difference in temperature as we stepped down off the coach . We said goodbye and I ran down the steps and into the underground. I got the first Circle Line train I could and pretended to listen to music (because my battery was dead) until I got to my office for 08:56, smelling of garlic and coach stations and a love for a city that was not my own.

  • It’s Already Out There

    Sometimes it isn’t the content of the film itself, but instead the circumstances you watch it in. It is well recorded that I am prone to wild bouts of tears if I watch any film while on an aeroplane (I’m looking at you Amy, Inside Out, Instant Family, Lion, Infinity War, Adaptation).

    I had seen Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless Mind any number of times before I watched it on a roof in Stratford but that will always be my favourite viewing. I had seen Blade Runner a lot because a girl I was dating had to study it when we were at university but it never had a patch on the Secret Cinema screening last year.

    I had never fully appreciated the power, nuance and wonder of Nora Ephron’s work until I saw When Harry Met Sally at the Prince Charles cinema in Leicester Square recently.

    For those of you who are not familiar with what is objectively the greatest romantic comedy of all time, When Harry Met Sally (or WHMS as I sometimes call it for fun) centres around one human male (Harry) and one human female (Sally) and their relationship. It begins with a journey from the University of Chicago to New York where the pair are thrown together for the drive by a mutual friend. Harry has a dark side (which I can relate to) and absolutely nothing bothers Sally (which I envy). On the ride they fall out over Harry’s insistence that Sally has never had great sex and whether they should get a motel together.

     

    I was first introduced to WHMS by my grandfather. He told me that men and women could never really be friends because the sex always got in the way. He told me this when I was fourteen. I rolled my eyes and told him that he was embarrassing and then I spent a decade proving his point.

     

    What makes WHMS so great is the honesty of the relationship onscreen. It isn’t plain-sailing and at no point does it feel like the relationship is being played out by numbers or in a three-act structure. You completely buy into their friendship and then their relationship. I can never work out which of the pair of them I fancy (see also: Before Sunrise, Eternal Sunshine, True Romance, La La Land, Garden State, Star Wars).

     

    I cannot recommend seeing WHMS enough. Go and see it in the cinema if you get the chance, and if you can’t get around to that, then do what I do; watch it once a month on Netflix and proudly partake of some pecan pie.