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  • Sahara – Day 2

    Today we head out into the wild.

    Setting off after breakfast in a convoy of private 4×4 vehicles we will head southwards on a dramatic route over the spine of the highest and most extensive mountain range in North Africa, the High Atlas. At 2260m above sea level, the Tichka Pass is one of the country’s highest paved roads, as well as one of the most scenic. It provides a sinuous passage between the plains and fertile lands of the north and the oases and stark mountain ranges of the south. Crossing the pass we’ll notice a change of landscape as the desert begins to make its mark on the physical environment. The south is characterised by sweeping desert landscapes, big skies, palm oases, mud villages and emblematic earth-brick Kasbahs. En-route we will stop at one such Kasbah – Ait Benhaddou – a 12th century fortified village with film-set imagery and excellent views over the surrounding expanse of desert and mountains. After lunching in a restaurant in the Ouarzazate region we’ll continue down the Draa Valley (an immense date palm plantation) to Zagora, the gateway to the Moroccan Sahara. Shortly after Zagora we will head off road for the last hour or so as we complete our journey in the Jebel Bani Mountains. On arrival at our first camp we will meet our team of cooks, guides, camels and their handlers. Here we will have a welcome dinner and camp at Fejia.

    Donate to The Prince’s Trust here.

  • Sahara – Day 1

    Good day fellows.
    I’ve managed to queue a post for each day of the trek as I won’t have any kind of signal and I figure you might be interested. I’m just taking the details from the itinerary I’ve been provided with.

    When this goes live I will be up in the air.

    Upon arrival in Marrakech, we will be met at the airport by our group tour leader and taken by private minibus to our city centre accommodation. Having settled into the hotel, we will be given an introductory briefing by the group tour leader before heading out for a group meal on the celebrated Jemaa el Fna Square.

    Donate to The Prince’s Trust here.

  • Just a post about ping pong.

    That’s right, drawing upon the heroic efforts of Operator Please for a title there. It had to be done.

    Last night was the last ‘Sahara Social’, a series of events organised by the angel-like patient coordinators of the Sahara Trek I am heading out on this weekend. As it turns out it was the only Sahara Social I was able to attend (I believe one was on when I was at a festival…Glastonbury maybe?). It was a really good experience to be able to meet the people I am going to be walking with for the next week, an opportunity to get our heads together and work out the finer details. It was also my first sighting of the elusive WC, the individual who has raised over seventeen times what I have for charity and has something of a cult status amongst us Trekkers (not to be confused with Trekkies).

    Fortunately everyone was lovely. We had initially paid a deposit to the bar, Ping on account of the size of the group. Despite that some people still didn’t make it down so there was more beer money to go round after dinner.
    It was nice to see that everyone seems as hectic as I am at the moment, if anything it has set some of my worries aside. I seem to have done more exercise than a number of people and nobody appears to have started packing (which will very much be my last pre-Sahara battle aside from making it to the airport). The organisers were still in good spirits when answering questions and served as courteous hosts, fielding the same repeated platitudes about the details of our trek.

    The event was supposed to include ping pong but as soon as I realised I cannot play ping pong to save my life (fortunately the plastic balls were not on fire, or bullets) I just stood back and watch, playing particular interest when the monolith that is WC beat my Sahara buddy Terri down like she had insulted his honour.

    It was a cool evening but it made the whole thing a lot more real. With just 36 hours until our flight I am wondering if I will even have time to set my out of office before I have to pack.

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  • We used to wait.

    Last night I hung around the office under the pretence I had work to finish. In all likelihood I do have work to finish, but that wasn’t why I didn’t leave the office until 8pm. Don’t worry, I’ve not become one of those terrible city boys, top button and second chin meeting in a cacophony of stress, having no idea of what really matters in life. I am not one of them. I was at work until 8 because it is coming towards the end of the month and I couldn’t think of anywhere else I could hide out for three hours for free.
    Why did I need to hide out for three hours?
    Well obviously I was waiting for 9pm/9/9, the moment when all the enigmatic clues fell into place and the new Arcade Fire single and video were released.
    Why did I need to queue up outside Rough Trade to buy a copy?
    Well obviously it is because Arcade Fire are one of the few bands making music today that I care about.
    When I first saw them at a very drunken Reading festival in 2007 it was like waking up (pun intended). People had described their live shows as being like a religious experience and I watched people who looked like they were possessed utterly lose their shit as they convulsed to songs from the at-the-time recently dropped Neon Bible.
    I quickly became obsessed in the all or nothing way I conduct my life. It culminated with seeing them headline at Reading 2010 with my good friend James, travelling to Birmingham later the same year as James was living up there and tickets for their London show had sold out and then getting a tattoo of a lyric from My Body Is A Cage on my right arm.
    My love has mostly been dormant since, by which I mean I just listen to the albums a couple of times a week, have The Suburbs on in my car every summer and look dreamily into the distance and dream of their return (not whilst driving – it’s dangerous).

    That’s why I found myself in a queue of the hardcore outside the prestigious and regal Rough Trade East at half past eight last night, behind a German couple, who seemed perplexed when I asked them if they were at the back of the queue – that famous sense of humour etc.
    For the last week I’ve spent a lot of time scanning through the clues the band have left online. Websites like justareflektor and thereflektors appeared from nowhere and we were all invited to be a part of it. It was the kind of chase you would expect from Arcade Fire, a collective never known for keeping things simple. There’s always intricate detail and themes and subtext. That’s why the diamonds spelling out the title inside of the chalked circle became a talking point as well as a hashtag.
    To draw so much attention from a single is an incredible feat. There was a time when single releases were everything, when music was precious and limited. In many ways we are a lot better off. Everything is a lot more accessible. It can be streamed, it can be downloaded, it can be torrented and burnt and ripped and whatever else you crazy cats choose to do to limit the frequencies and qualities of the music you listen to. There was a time when we used to wait. There it is. That’s how it all ties together.
    For Arcade Fire to have achieved this in 2013, that buzz and excitement about their incoming music is incredible.

    The song itself, passed across to me on 12″ vinyl in the glossiest sleeve since Vince Noir’s mirrorball suit, is astounding. Coming in at just over the seven minute mark it is all you could want as a fan, and much more. It sticks to the Teflon coating of your brain and won’t be scrubbed clean. It has a different vibe and a different beat to what they have done before but it is undoubtably Arcade Fire. Draped in the imagery of the snippets and videos provided in the run up to its release it’s a triumph for the band… but what is that? Or more fittingly, who is that straining away on vocals in the last couple of minutes. Why it’s only David chuffing Bowie! on an Arcade Fire track. Well if that doesn’t just confirm what I thought I already knew. This album is going to be amazing.
    By the time I got to the train station I was watching the Anton Corbjin-directed video, a black and white masterpiece with more confusing imagery, big papier mâché heads and Win Butler with raccoon face paint on. I don’t know why anyone would expect any different.

    Needless to say I’ve preordered the album, and in doing so get the privilege of being offered tickets to their tour in advance of general sale. I’m excited. Arcade Fire are back.

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  • My first stand up.

    For two days I had chest pains every time someone mentioned it to me, or asked how I was feeling. My legs would change from a solid to a liquid and I would need the support of a good sturdy surface. This was how my body chose to tell me I was heading for my first ever stand up performance.

    I’m a bit of a show off at times, but under conditions. I can also be an introvert, I cross that line like a Morris dancer, often and off beat. I’ve wanted to try stand up for a long time because it is something I admire other people for doing, today even more so. That isn’t to say I want to do everything I admire others for doing, although I’ve tried chopping wood and tightrope walking and I’m shit at both.

    Last night I performed ten minutes of stand up at The Alex in Southend as part of a new monthly open mic night hosted by Little Smash Presents. It was without a doubt one of the best experiences of my life. It was also one of the most terrifying. I hate that hybrid but it draws me right in.

    I spent yesterday afternoon in a pub, watching people watching football, and trying not to think about what I was going to have to do. I don’t even know what to compare it to. Maybe being in the queue for a rollercoaster? You’ve committed to it but you can see a sobbing nine-year-old avec mother pushing their way back through the crowd as the child realises this isn’t for him and has the benefit of being able to cry to get what they want still. I wanted to be that kid, to just backtrack through the crowd and run away, maybe have a go on the teacups. When I thought on it I realised I sort of crave that disgusting nausea, and the way my stomach curdles, it’s what lets me know I truly care about something.

    I had faith in my material. Even when I was living it I believed it could one day be harnessed and shaped, like the ghost of Swayze over Moore’s dungaree-clad body, smoothing that pot up like a mighty clay cock. I knew it would make people laugh because life is funny, as long as you think of it in the correct terms. As ‘first world problems’ as my material is, it’s still a matter of tragedy + time = comedy. I observed and I reported.

    Before the audience filed in I met the other acts, people working the circuit, people who have honed their craft and paid their dues and their own travel costs evidently.
    They all had brilliant advice for me, told me to take my time, to move the mic stand out of my way, and to take a sip of drink when I was in need of a moment’s respite. I still felt like an observer though. When everyone started pouring into the room and taking seats I started to get really concerned. There was no getting out now. They had the overhead bars pulled down on me tight. We were starting our ascent.

    Ross, Luke and Liam all completely blasted their way through, Ross as compere for his night and the others throwing in brilliant gags about knife crime in McDonalds ads and being turned down by prostitutes. Then I realised I had to go onstage. I was leaning against the side wall and didn’t feel I could leave it. I tried to will my limbs into action but I just remained slumped, my heart beating abnormally fast and my forehead, pits and hands sweating as though I were on the verge of a nervous breakdown.

    Ross announced my name and I walked onstage and the applause was so warm and receptive that I forgot every word I had ever known. I picked the microphone off the stand and swore, forgetting the important rule of moving it to the side in the process… and then I was off, or on, or in.
    I got my first laugh where I had assumed it would be and believe I held my own from there.
    It was so different to anything I had done before. A completely different temperament and atmosphere to drama or improv or gigs.
    I had so many people there in support that I felt stronger for it. Once I got that first laugh I realised the whole thing wasn’t in my head, and that I could possibly be funny if I really put my mind to it. The performances in front of a mirror with a hairbrush over the course of a month had served me well.

    As I returned the microphone to the stand and walked offstage I felt like I was going to collapse, but as a result of the fear and adrenaline coexisting in me. People shook my hand and hugged me but I was just in a daze. It’s just dawning on me now, the following morning, what happened and what I have done. It was amazing.

    After the interval which followed my set there were four more performers; John, Sam, Sean and Chris. John, who I know from improv seemed so natural onstage, as though the whole thing were just something he had walked in on. His observations on the kind of people who do stand up were spot on.
    When Sam got up I was as nervous and excited as I had been for my own set. Sam and I met through our friend Danny when he coaxed us into starting to attend an improv group. That’s why it was really good that we both made our first tentative steps into stand up at the same time. His routine was just what I expected; brilliant, dark and charmingly shambolic. I also really enjoyed Sean’s set, a comedian I had seen at the recent Southend Comedy Festival. The last act Chris Ashton knocked it out of the park. From across the room I could see my friends flailing about laughing and I can guarantee we will be poaching some of his puns for our everyday conversations.

    It was such an incredible and terrifying thing to do but something I’m so glad I got to be a part of. I want to thank all of the other acts for their kind words and excellent performances, to Ross for having me, to Sam for stepping up to stand up alongside me, to Antony and Lucy for making such a ridiculous journey just to see me, and to each and every person who showed up, or text or tweeted me good luck. Mostly, thank you to my incredible girlfriend for loving me and believing in me and to my family for giving me such versatile material.
    You’re all golden.

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    Pre-show toilet freak out.

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    Handful of set.

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  • Another ten mile hike.

    I’m in the bath. Don’t worry, there’s no threat to Franny, my MacBook who famously lost her hard drive after being propped up in the bathroom so I could wallow and watch Homeland simultaneously. I’m on the iPhone, Lucille, which is virtually indestructible. So much so I’d be tempted to name her Scarlett, after Captain Scarlett.

    I’m in the bath because I’m aching. I’m aching because I’ve just walked ten miles in three hours. My feet feel harder and lumpy and my rucksack related back sweat was something to be admired. It has just dawned on me that all of my training and channeling can’t prepare me for the fact that when I do head out into the Sahara desert (in just five weeks) I won’t be able to relax and bathe whilst instagramming stupid pictures of myself. I’m going to sit in my sweat, I’m going to live in it. This is different to stinking it up at a festival. This is next level Bear Grylls shit.
    An I scared? Yes of course, I’d be concerned if I wasn’t but its good to know the time and money and effort has an end result and it is drawing very close indeed.

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  • Unearthed heroes.

    There comes a time in the life of any young fanatic when you think you know it all. You’ve read their individual and collected works. You’ve trawled libraries and search engines for everything there is to find on them and then they go and pull the incredible feat of surprising you, from beyond the grave.
    I’m talking about the emergence of new material, namely Jack Kerouac’s Upper Peninsula Diary which was found in a used bookstore in Michigan and photographs of J D Salinger in army fatigues amongst his buddies during the Second World War.
    As someone who grew up ravishing every written word the pair of them wrote it’s a strange sensation to know there is still more, that I’m obviously not quite the fan I thought because I’m not prowling bookshops in small-town America and I’ve not spent the best part of a decade researching an elusive writer who would hate the thought of any kind of interest in him still existing. The thought of Salinger’s alleged trove of unreleased material found following his death is more than I as a fan can stand.

    It’s nice to have a little reminder that those whose words taught you so much can still surprise you in the way they did when you first fell for them. That there may be a limit to the amount one person can produce in a lifetime but for someone else to accumulate and obtain that knowledge is almost as limiting.
    I don’t want to be precious about them but there’s a reason the UPD and unreleased Salinger manuscripts never saw the sight of day during their lifetimes, and it’s just possible they could stay that way.

    Read about Salinger here.
    Read about Kerouac here.

  • Kit list.

    As many of you should know I am headed for the Sahara in October, trekking 100km to raise money for The Prince’s Trust [read more]. I’m paying for the trek myself but I could really do with begging, stealing or borrowing a lot of the essential kit I will need.
    If anyone I know has the following and is willing to lend them to me through October then please let me know before I buy them for myself.

    Large rucksack/kit bag.
    Sleeping bag (2 – 3 season mummy bag preferably).
    Gaiters.
    Head torch.
    Water bottle/canteen (1 litre capacity).
    Indiana Jones style hat.
    I will cross items through as they’re offered to me.

    If I manage to collect all of these items and not pay out I’ll donate my expected expenditure to The Prince’s Trust.

    Anyone who does give me any of the above will get an honorary mention in whatever form my creativity takes after this (if I make it through). There are talks of a video blog and a book.

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  • Yo, we’re up to date bitch!

    This week represents the return of Breaking Bad for the latter half of its fifth and final series. Breaking Bad is the brainchild of Vince Gilligan and follows the story of high school chemistry teacher Walter White (Brian Cranston) as he discovers he has months to live and reconnects with one of his lost flock to start cooking methamphetamine to build a nest egg for his family.

    I first got into Breaking Bad because the concept seemed so incredibly bizarre it had to be good. I knew of Cranston as the hapless father in Malcolm In The Middle and the idea of him ‘breaking bad’ was just as ridiculous to me as it was to Jesse Pinkman. What happened is that I discovered one of the most intense and brilliant television shows of the last decade. After getting the first season on DVD I borrowed the second and watched the third and forth on LoveFilm and Netflix at the time the fifth series was being aired. It was exciting to know there was so much content to get through, so many places it could go, so many drug lords to be toppled and misadventures for Walt and Jesse. What happens to Walt and what happens to the series as a whole is that it continues to draw darker, like an approaching dusk. The deaths in the first series, particularly the acid bath have a near humour to them, like a Laurel & Hardy sketch, with corpses but as Walt bumbles his way into things you can’t help but be drawn to what he does, after all it is essentially good. Is it wrong to steal a loaf of bread to feed your starving family? Is it wrong to cook meth to cover your family in the event of your death?

    Walt does break bad and he just gets badder. He is the one who knocks. He is the danger.
    What is executed so well is how believable this change in his character is, after all this is a development we have seen over four and a half series. The shy and retiring Walter White, high school teacher and cancer patient is not the same as the W.W. who gets things done. He seems so calculated and malicious and yet we are all still there for him, on his side and waiting to see how it played out after the incredible cliffhanger of Walt’s DEA agent brother-in-law Hank having a eureka moment on the toilet and realising the great Heisenberg he had been chasing was sat outside eating BBQ.

    The new episode did not disappoint. There are already clues to what could happen to Walt and his family as the sun sets on one of the most stunning and fantastically written series I’ve ever seen. At one point Walt even muttered the immortal line ‘to be continued’, practically to camera and we know where it’s going and can’t wait to see that showdown. The flashforwards continue to drip information like a crack in a dam but we will get there.
    The only disappointing thing at this stage is we are sat waiting for Sunday, for the next episode. There is no backlog for the majority of people anymore. Much like the product of the desert-bound RV, we are hooked.

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  • On Feminism

    “Why does Kate keep posting all that stuff about feminism?”
    What an excellent question, and one I have been asked far too many times of late. The answer of course is that there has been a resurgence in the campaign as a result of more and more men thinking it is acceptable to treat women as secondary citizens.

    I feel very fortunate in that I have never really felt vilified because of my gender, my ethnicity, my religion or any other recognisable trait. I’m a white male who has never truly struggled for anything or suffered for my beliefs. That’s why it is so important for me to speak out about it. I know a lot of the problem with any kind of discrimination is down to people who fall into the same brackets as me, but I understand why. I was never expressly told that women are equal to me, or that because someone has a different skin colour to me they shouldn’t be treated differently. I don’t recall being instructed it was not acceptable to slap women on the arse as a form of endearment or to wolf-whistle at them if I found them attractive. I was never told these things and yet I know them. The idea of acting in such a degrading manner towards anyone makes me feel a bit nauseous. It seems such a tired cliche to shout “look at the tits on that”, and yet there are men my age who think it is still acceptable. I would like to think that we are growing better, generation by generation.
    When you consider that a generation before us had segregation of races and considered this acceptable, and a generation prior to that had seven million Jews and other minorities killed, we seem to be getting better, but the improvement is far too slow.
    My generation represent the first time being gay has been accepted, and rightly so. Our view is that you love who you love and whose business is it other than your own (as long as it’s not with children or animals). It’s parts of the generation prior that still hold that archaic view there is something inherently wrong in being gay, and that’s where the real fear of “coming out” grows.

    Women’s rights seems to be a much slower burn. In 1918 women were allowed to vote for the first time however three or four generations later they still don’t earn the same as men for working the same jobs, they’re not respected in the same way as men for their opinions, and they have put up with it for far too long. That’s why Kate posts “all that stuff about feminism” and regardless of any opinion on the matter, I am proud of her.

Paul Schiernecker

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